Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
From source to sea: An Amazonian walk on the wild side
I wake up with the light, just before 6 a.m., and reach for my vitamin pills hanging above my hammock. I get out of bed and peer through the gloom to see if Cho is up yet and has started the fire. If so, I will probably go to the river and check the fishing net to see if we have a catch.
The water is cold at this time of the morning and a river more than waist deep is a rude awakening to the day.
We cook our staple of farinha (made from cassava root) in a little oil and garlic and wash the dry substance down with sweet coffee. Then we decamp, pack our bags and are on the trail by about 7.30 a.m. -- except there are no trails, of course.
Cho and I take turns up front with the machete. We walk 50 minutes of every hour and rest 10 minutes, so we do 25-minute shifts. It's enough when you have to carry a 35 to 45 kg pack (the weight depends on the quantity of food and duration of the leg.)
When we break for a rest and slump onto our packs we stare at the floor and try and regain the composure to speak to each other. Sometimes this never comes and we don't speak all day. Nothing sinister -- it's just complete exhaustion. We don't lunch; we just keep grazing on farinha and salt.
Video: Walking with the 'Amazon man'
Video: Walking the Amazon
At 3 p.m. we look for a stream or river that might yield fish. A nice deep slow-moving pool is what we are after. Oxbow lakes are great too, packed with piranhas that have loads of succulent white flesh on them.
Occasionally we don't arrive at a river: It's exploratory trekking after all and we don't know what's ahead. The maps we had were useless -- they're intended for plane navigation -- so we now use Google Earth printouts instead.
If we have no water we can't wash, rehydrate or cook properly. It's a grimy night of broken sleep in your hammock. Not pleasant. If we have water, no matter how small the puddle might be, we can make a reservoir from our rucksack liners and bail water into them using our Tupperware boxes.
We wash whenever we can -- every night if possible -- including all the clothes we wore during the day too. If we didn't, we would degrade very quickly. Bacteria are rife and humidity doesn't let cuts heal very quickly. Hygiene is vital.
Watch Ed Stafford dealing with medical problems along the way Video
We then put on a pot of coffee, eat some more farinha (and hopefully fish broth), and sit chatting about our dreams for after the expedition when life starts again. Then we climb into our hammocks. I designed them and had them made up in Colombia. They have mosquito nets and tarps that fit snugly.
I'll answer my emails and upload the footage I've shot in the day. Thursday is blog day, and so I diarize our week for those following us.
My most memorable moment to date would be back in April 2008, when I made the summit of Nevado Mismi in Peru and looked out across the Amazon basin with the knowledge that I'd be walking along it for the next two years. It was both overwhelming and exciting.
My favorite moment was actually far less spectacular. Cho and I had been walking through an area of Peru where everyone was suspicious, scared or aggressive towards us: Myths of organ traffickers were rife and education was limited.
As the sun started to set we were approaching a small jungle town and a little old lady joined me on the path with her granddaughter. They started chatting and the little girl held my hand -- she must have been about five-years old. They walked with us happily until we reached the town, even though by then it was dark.
Oxbow lakes are great too, packed with piranhas that have loads of succulent white flesh on them
--Ed Stafford
RELATED TOPICS
* Amazon Rain Forest
* Brazil
* Peru
Cynically, I thought that they were going to ask for money or food but when we arrived they smiled, shook our hands, and wished us good luck before returning to their house, some kilometers back, in the pitch black. They had walked with us out of pure good will. And at that time, when good will had been somewhat lacking, it brought me close to tears.
There have been other moments when I've been close to tears and moments of laughter: For example, last night at 10 p.m. Cho hit the ground with a thud when the pole his hammock was tied to broke in two.
At first I thought he'd injured himself as he couldn't respond, but he was coping with the combination of trying to force himself awake and being quite badly winded! He laughed too, eventually!
As we near the end, the day-to-day business of getting up and putting on wet clothes is tough. The endurance, both mental and physical, has been the thing that's been the most wearing. I've been quite humbled by how much I've had to rely on other people and I've benefited greatly from the generosity of the people I've met along the way.
For the last 840 odd days I've lived and breathed the Amazon, the most amazing place on our planet.
I'll never forget my two-and-a-half years walking along the banks of this spectacular river. Granted, there have been dangers. Cho and I have experienced more drama in two-and-a-half years than most people do in a lifetime.
However, the abiding memories I'll take home to the UK will be my close friendship with Cho -- we're brothers now -- the people we've met, and the life we've lived.
The water is cold at this time of the morning and a river more than waist deep is a rude awakening to the day.
We cook our staple of farinha (made from cassava root) in a little oil and garlic and wash the dry substance down with sweet coffee. Then we decamp, pack our bags and are on the trail by about 7.30 a.m. -- except there are no trails, of course.
Cho and I take turns up front with the machete. We walk 50 minutes of every hour and rest 10 minutes, so we do 25-minute shifts. It's enough when you have to carry a 35 to 45 kg pack (the weight depends on the quantity of food and duration of the leg.)
When we break for a rest and slump onto our packs we stare at the floor and try and regain the composure to speak to each other. Sometimes this never comes and we don't speak all day. Nothing sinister -- it's just complete exhaustion. We don't lunch; we just keep grazing on farinha and salt.
Video: Walking with the 'Amazon man'
Video: Walking the Amazon
At 3 p.m. we look for a stream or river that might yield fish. A nice deep slow-moving pool is what we are after. Oxbow lakes are great too, packed with piranhas that have loads of succulent white flesh on them.
Occasionally we don't arrive at a river: It's exploratory trekking after all and we don't know what's ahead. The maps we had were useless -- they're intended for plane navigation -- so we now use Google Earth printouts instead.
If we have no water we can't wash, rehydrate or cook properly. It's a grimy night of broken sleep in your hammock. Not pleasant. If we have water, no matter how small the puddle might be, we can make a reservoir from our rucksack liners and bail water into them using our Tupperware boxes.
We wash whenever we can -- every night if possible -- including all the clothes we wore during the day too. If we didn't, we would degrade very quickly. Bacteria are rife and humidity doesn't let cuts heal very quickly. Hygiene is vital.
Watch Ed Stafford dealing with medical problems along the way Video
We then put on a pot of coffee, eat some more farinha (and hopefully fish broth), and sit chatting about our dreams for after the expedition when life starts again. Then we climb into our hammocks. I designed them and had them made up in Colombia. They have mosquito nets and tarps that fit snugly.
I'll answer my emails and upload the footage I've shot in the day. Thursday is blog day, and so I diarize our week for those following us.
My most memorable moment to date would be back in April 2008, when I made the summit of Nevado Mismi in Peru and looked out across the Amazon basin with the knowledge that I'd be walking along it for the next two years. It was both overwhelming and exciting.
My favorite moment was actually far less spectacular. Cho and I had been walking through an area of Peru where everyone was suspicious, scared or aggressive towards us: Myths of organ traffickers were rife and education was limited.
As the sun started to set we were approaching a small jungle town and a little old lady joined me on the path with her granddaughter. They started chatting and the little girl held my hand -- she must have been about five-years old. They walked with us happily until we reached the town, even though by then it was dark.
Oxbow lakes are great too, packed with piranhas that have loads of succulent white flesh on them
--Ed Stafford
RELATED TOPICS
* Amazon Rain Forest
* Brazil
* Peru
Cynically, I thought that they were going to ask for money or food but when we arrived they smiled, shook our hands, and wished us good luck before returning to their house, some kilometers back, in the pitch black. They had walked with us out of pure good will. And at that time, when good will had been somewhat lacking, it brought me close to tears.
There have been other moments when I've been close to tears and moments of laughter: For example, last night at 10 p.m. Cho hit the ground with a thud when the pole his hammock was tied to broke in two.
At first I thought he'd injured himself as he couldn't respond, but he was coping with the combination of trying to force himself awake and being quite badly winded! He laughed too, eventually!
As we near the end, the day-to-day business of getting up and putting on wet clothes is tough. The endurance, both mental and physical, has been the thing that's been the most wearing. I've been quite humbled by how much I've had to rely on other people and I've benefited greatly from the generosity of the people I've met along the way.
For the last 840 odd days I've lived and breathed the Amazon, the most amazing place on our planet.
I'll never forget my two-and-a-half years walking along the banks of this spectacular river. Granted, there have been dangers. Cho and I have experienced more drama in two-and-a-half years than most people do in a lifetime.
However, the abiding memories I'll take home to the UK will be my close friendship with Cho -- we're brothers now -- the people we've met, and the life we've lived.
Visitors to Hawaii up for seventh straight month
Hawaii recorded its seventh consecutive increase in visitors in June, welcoming 625,522 last month, a 13.6 percent jump over June 2009, the Hawaii Tourism Authority reported Wednesday.
The June increase, coupled with higher average daily visitor spending, led to a 16.1 percent jump in total expenditures last month to $131.7 million.
For the first half of 2010, total expenditures climbed to $5.3 billion, a 7.8 percent increase compared with the first half of 2009.
"With an overall increase in arrivals for the seventh consecutive month and visitor expenditures up 7.8 percent over last year, we are pleased that our efforts to drive demand and boost arrivals in the short-term have been successful, including the industry working together to create a quality experience for our visitors," authority President and CEO Mike McCartney said.
"Our focused efforts to increase travel demand to Hawaii in our major market areas are paying off with increases in arrivals from U.S. West, U.S. East, Canada, and Japan," he said. "While Japan arrivals are down from 2008, they continue to head upward following last year's H1N1 epidemic, which severely reduced arrivals and expenditures from this market."
All islands experienced heavier visitor traffic in June, with arrivals on Oahu increasing 18.3 percent, followed by the Big Island (8.9 percent), Maui (5.9 percent) and Kauai (5.8 percent).
"We are expecting Hawaii's summer season to continue to outpace last year, thanks to the successful marketing campaign plans that have been implemented with our travel partners," Hawaii tourism liaison Marsha Wienert said.
"Although we still have a ways to go to make up for what has been lost during these challenging economic times, our visitor industry is on the right path and there is reason for increased confidence in Hawaii's economic recovery," she said.
Best countries for solo travelers
There are many travelers who claim that traveling alone is the best way to see the world.
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You deliberately travel solo, they say, because you want to experience the world without the influence of a friend or partner’s tastes, prejudices, or preferences. When you’re with a companion, it’s easy to focus on that person and forget about meeting other travelers. Traveling alone, you’re more likely to be on a voyage of self-discovery.
Click for slideshow: Best countries for solo travelers
Solo travel can be delightfully self-indulgent. You can spend a day doing nothing but café hopping or lingering in a single museum. You can loll on a beach on the South China Sea or hire a guide to visit remote ruins. Indulge your classical music passion in one of Europe’s great concert halls or join a group of like-minded strangers for a Himalayan trek.
It’s your call. Solo travel is the ideal opportunity to try something new, like a surf camp in Central America, a bike trip in Southeast Asia, or a visit to a classic European spa town. Despite the dreaded (and often costly) single supplement, bona fide single accommodations are both affordable and available in many parts of the world.
Still, there are two concerns for many solo travelers. The first is safety: The simple fact is that there are countries that are statistically safer than others for travelers.
The second concern is a bit less tangible but just as critical: Is the country you’ve chosen a happy place? Is it a country where you’ll be made to feel welcome, a nation where you can easily interact with the locals, where conversation flows easily even if you’re struggling with a new language? For truly rewarding solo travel, it’s crucial that you can connect with the culture and not feel like an outsider.
To find the answer to these two questions, we crunched the numbers from the Global Peace Index, which ranks 149 nations for their peacefulness, and the Happy Planet Index, which looks at environmental impact and human well-being in 143 countries to measure where people live long and happy lives.
Pirates, smugglers, castaways: 10 great adventure books for the beach
Almost as essential as sunglasses and sunscreen, a good book can make relaxing on holiday by the sea even better.
But with so many titles out there, choosing can prove tricky. After all, when you're lounging in the sun, you don't want your book to turn out to be a flop.
With this in mind, we've waded through the lists so you don't have to and compiled a guide to summer reading.
All the books have a maritime theme to enjoy while sailing the high seas, or just relaxing on the beach beside them.
There's a range of fiction and non-fiction titles; a few classics mixed in with biographies and historical accounts of epic voyages; tales of action and adventure as well as love and loss, and they all take place on boats or on the ocean.
Here's what we've come up with. Please add your suggestions in comments at the bottom of the page.
'A Voyage For Madmen'
Peter Nichols, 2002
In 1968, nine men set out on a dangerous (and in hindsight disastrous) race to be the first to sail solo around the world non-stop. It had never been done before and nine months later, only one man made it across the finish line. Full of tension, Nichols' authoritative account chronicles the journeys of nine men and their quest for glory.
'Life of Pi'
Yann Martel, 2003
A gentle yet gripping story about a young Indian boy drifting helplessly across the Pacific Ocean with only a 450-pound Bengal tiger for company. If it sounds surreal, it is. But this has not stopped the book receiving critical acclaim, winning the Man Booker prize in 2002. Written by Spanish-born Canadian Yann Martel, the book could best be described as part fable, part spellbinding adventure. And it even has a clever twist at the end.
'Treasure Island'
Robert Louis Stevenson, 1883
Hidden treasure, peg legs and parrots -- Stevenson's classic novel is the quintessential pirate yarn. Written in 1883, it follows the adventures of young Jim Hawkins as he searches for treasure buried by the notorious and brutal Captain Flint. It's a favorite for both adults and children and has done more to influence the popular perception of pirates than any other book.
'Over the Edge of the World: Magellan's Terrifying Circumnavigation of the Globe'
Laurence Bergreen, 2004
Filled with suspense and drama, Bergreen's book retells the story of Ferdinand Magellan's 1519 expedition to the Spice Islands, which ultimately led to the first known circumnavigation of the globe. It was an ill-fated journey undone by Magellan's inflated ego and obsessive quest to find the Islands.
'Moby Dick' (or 'The Whale')
Herman Melville, 1851
"Moby Dick" considered by many to be a literary masterpiece, secured a place for Melville as one of America's greatest writers. Written in 1851, it is the story of Ishmael and the hunt for the great white whale. Some would say the book is dauntingly long, but if you've the stamina, you'll be justly rewarded with an epic tale.
The 'Aubrey-Maturin' series
Patrick O'Brien, 1969 - 1999
Many of the novels in this series by acclaimed English novelist Patrick O'Brien have hit The New York Times Best Seller list. Set during the Napoleonic Wars, they chart the exploits of Captain Jack Aubrey of the Royal Navy and his ship's surgeon Stephen Maturin, as they fight the French and discover new lands. The books, with titles including "Master and Commander," "HMS Surprise" and "The Far Side of the World," are a fascinating insight into the 19th century world of sailing and warfare, spun around absorbing storylines.
'Sailing Alone Around the World'
Joshua Slocum, 1900
The story of seaman and adventurer Joshua Slocum, the first man to single-handedly sail around the world. Now considered a classic, Slocum's autobiography recounts his arduous three-year journey from 1895 to 1898 aboard his 37-foot sloop, "Spray." Although published more than 100 years ago, it remains an enthralling and funny read.
'Coconut Chaos'
Diana Souhami, 2007
A mix of autobiography and historical retelling, "Coconut Chaos" follows the exploits of the inhabitants of Pitcairn Island, past and present. Diana Souhami recounts and reinterprets the famous story of the "Mutiny on the Bounty" on the island, while weaving in her own personal experiences of the place and her romance with a woman known only as the mysterious Lady Myre.
'Sea of Poppies'
Amitav Ghosh, 2008
An enthralling 17th century saga about a motley crew of sailors, stowaways, convicts and passengers from across the world aboard the converted slaving ship, "Ibis," now used to transport opium to China. It brings to life beautifully the culture and politics of the time, offering enlightening details into 1830s Calcutta, the production of opium and the dangers of 19th century seafaring.
'Endurance: Shackleton's Incredible Voyage'
Alfred Lansing, 1959
This best-selling book recounts Sir Ernest Shackleton's failed attempt to cross the Antarctic in 1914 at the head of the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition. It recounts the two years Shackleton and his 28-man crew spent fighting to escape the icy grip of the Antarctic. Diary excerpts and lengthy interviews with surviving crew members keep the account accurate and enthralling.
Is the Airbus A380 really that different?
When Singapore Airlines first started flying the Airbus A380 in 2007, it was still a big question mark whether the aircraft would be a hit with passengers.
Early indications were that the plane was a huge success in terms of passenger comfort and after nearly three years in service, routes that have the A380 are at near capacity.
Just last month, Emirates Airlines placed a mammoth order for 32 more Airbus A380s worth more than $10 billion -- the airline will have 90 super jumbos in total.
Other airlines like Qantas, Lufthansa and Air France also fly the A380 on some of their most lucrative routes.
But, is the Airbus A380 really worth all the fuss? Are passengers really willing to switch airlines or choose different routes just to be able to fly on the super jumbo?
On a flight onboard one of Singapore Airlines' newest A380s from London to Singapore, passengers would soon find out.
Noise
There's been so much talk about the A380's quiet interior, but until you actually take a flight in one, it is nearly impossible to get a sense of the silence.
On most aircraft, including the Boeing 747 and Airbus A340, noise levels are generally one of the factors that passengers dislike most.
Even with the stock standard ear plugs, they do little to block out engine noise.
On this particular Singapore Airlines flight from London to Singapore, the silence was almost worrying.
Right from takeoff, the level of noise was drastically lower.
Although there were four huge Rolls Royce engines at full throttle being used to lift the 571,000 kilogram aircraft off the ground, the interior of the plane was eerily quiet.
However, the full effect of the lack of noise doesn't really take hold until you are at cruising altitude.
Instead of talking loudly to the flight attendant to order the airline's famous Singapore Sling, passengers could whisper.
Full conversations were easily heard two rows back.
It was a startling and obvious improvement for passengers used to decades of loud engine noise and ringing ear drums.
Space
With nearly 50 percent more cabin space than the Boeing 747, airlines have used this as a big selling point to passengers.
Onboard Singapore Airlines, passengers in economy experience seats with a width of 48 centimeters across -- nearly four centimeters more than a 747.
Its business class seats are the widest in the sky at a staggering 86 centimeters (2.82 feet). On this particular flight, passengers were seen sitting cross-legged or even sharing their seat with another passenger.
But perhaps the greatest luxury for in-flight comfort lies with the airline's exclusive first-class suite.
Singapore Airlines' innovative first-class cabin, complete with stand-alone beds, sliding doors and blinds for privacy, has also earned it a sometimes dubious reputation, so much so that the airline introduced a "no-sex" rule onboard for passengers sharing the double-bed suites.
Onboard this particular Singapore Airlines flight, one passenger told CNN that they would never fly on any other aircraft on a long-haul route again.
"I don't know why anyone would ever want to fly on any other aircraft other than the A380," Tomas Chilsky said.
"I traveled to London from Frankfurt just to get on this flight and could never imagine going on another loud and uncomfortable flight for more than five or six hours.
"As a passenger, this is probably the most comfortable and enjoyable aircraft I have ever flown on."
Tenkawa-mura: Home of meteorites, UFOs and hippie performers
Most people associate Japan with the concrete and steel towers of its capital city, with high-tech gizmos, with its everything-but-the-kitchen-sink convenience stores. But this country has another side as well. A hidden one. A spiritual one. And one of the best places to take it in is Tenkawa-mura ("Milky Way Village") in Nara.
Getting to the isolated Tenkawa-mura takes some doing. The bus from the closest train station takes roughly an hour. Then it's another 40 minutes by foot. If timed right, it can be done in one day -- but watch those timetables. There are only a handful of buses. If you miss one, you might well find yourself with six or seven hours to kill before the next.
Power spot
Devotees relish this isolation. Celebrities drop by to pay respects to Tenkawa Dai-Benzaiten-sha Shrine, home to Benzaiten, a patron saint of the performing arts. New Age types revere Tenkawa as a “power spot,” a place where only the “chosen" are allowed to visit. (Rumor has it that those who aren't, can't get there no matter how hard they try; sickness, weather, work, and all sorts of things will conspire to keep them away.) The area is also known for UFO sightings, supposedly attracted to three large (and apparently real) meteorites that are displayed on the grounds of the shrine. Some even claim to feel mysterious energies emanating from the stones as they approach.
I didn't sense any mystical vibrations on my visit, but I couldn't help noticing the groovy atmosphere. The shrine advertises events for all sorts of personal explorations -- stuff like yoga, chakras, and meditation. And it's also open to anyone who wants to perform. A pilgrim of some sort dressed in a robe strummed a sitar as I arrived. Later, another man kicked off an impromptu concert from a series of crystal bowls. And of course, the normal sorts of shrine visitors -- those praying or offering thanks for love, health, or success -- were out in force as well. Pretty busy for such an out of the way place.
World Heritage Site
All of this new-agey stuff is fine, but it's a good idea to study up on the history of the place before visiting. For better or worse, this shrine wasn't built by refugees from Area 51. A holy man by the name of En-no-Ozunu, the founder of the religion of Shugendo, established it over 1,300 years ago. Tenkawa sits on one of the most difficult to traverse pilgrimage routes crossing the Kii peninsula, called the Ancient Paths of Kumano. And the view of the surrounding mountains is absolutely breathtaking, which explains more than the meteorites and sitar concerts why the place is registered as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
Read more: Tenkawa-mura: Home of meteorites, UFOs and hippie performers | CNNGo.com http://www.cnngo.com/explorations/none/day-japans-galactic-railroad-tenkawamura-696494#ixzz0tUIAIB81
Getting to the isolated Tenkawa-mura takes some doing. The bus from the closest train station takes roughly an hour. Then it's another 40 minutes by foot. If timed right, it can be done in one day -- but watch those timetables. There are only a handful of buses. If you miss one, you might well find yourself with six or seven hours to kill before the next.
Power spot
Devotees relish this isolation. Celebrities drop by to pay respects to Tenkawa Dai-Benzaiten-sha Shrine, home to Benzaiten, a patron saint of the performing arts. New Age types revere Tenkawa as a “power spot,” a place where only the “chosen" are allowed to visit. (Rumor has it that those who aren't, can't get there no matter how hard they try; sickness, weather, work, and all sorts of things will conspire to keep them away.) The area is also known for UFO sightings, supposedly attracted to three large (and apparently real) meteorites that are displayed on the grounds of the shrine. Some even claim to feel mysterious energies emanating from the stones as they approach.
I didn't sense any mystical vibrations on my visit, but I couldn't help noticing the groovy atmosphere. The shrine advertises events for all sorts of personal explorations -- stuff like yoga, chakras, and meditation. And it's also open to anyone who wants to perform. A pilgrim of some sort dressed in a robe strummed a sitar as I arrived. Later, another man kicked off an impromptu concert from a series of crystal bowls. And of course, the normal sorts of shrine visitors -- those praying or offering thanks for love, health, or success -- were out in force as well. Pretty busy for such an out of the way place.
World Heritage Site
All of this new-agey stuff is fine, but it's a good idea to study up on the history of the place before visiting. For better or worse, this shrine wasn't built by refugees from Area 51. A holy man by the name of En-no-Ozunu, the founder of the religion of Shugendo, established it over 1,300 years ago. Tenkawa sits on one of the most difficult to traverse pilgrimage routes crossing the Kii peninsula, called the Ancient Paths of Kumano. And the view of the surrounding mountains is absolutely breathtaking, which explains more than the meteorites and sitar concerts why the place is registered as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
Read more: Tenkawa-mura: Home of meteorites, UFOs and hippie performers | CNNGo.com http://www.cnngo.com/explorations/none/day-japans-galactic-railroad-tenkawamura-696494#ixzz0tUIAIB81
A Perfect Day in Jerusalem
Elias Khoury, 58, lawyer and activist
I'd begin my day in the Old City with its diversity of people, communities and religious sites. First up is the Via Dolorosa, where pilgrims follow the steps of Jesus and stop to pray by the 14 stations of the cross. Before the third station, a climb up to the roof of the Austrian Hospice, tel: (972-2) 626 5800, provides a magnificent view as well as great coffee and apple strudel. I'd then continue on to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, tel: (972-2) 627 3314, which holds the final stations of the cross. The church is a meeting point of the many denominations of the Christian church, diverse in ornamentation and vestments.
Further on are the colorful markets of the Old City, accessed via Damascus Gate. You can pass through Souq Khan al-Zeit for fruits and vegetables and then go on to the Souq al-Qattanin, the Cotton Merchants' Market. You're rewarded there with magical glimpses of the Dome of the Rock as well as the endless wares offered by the neighborhood's African and Muslim communities. A visit to Hammam al-Ein, a 14th century Mamluk bathhouse, is also a must. Nearby is the Temple Mount, where the Dome of the Rock and al Aqsa Mosque symbolize Jerusalem's Islamic history and traditions.
(See pictures of 60 years of Israel.)
Continue on to the Armenian Quarter, where you can visit local ceramic-artisan shops and studios and experience the unique heritage of the Armenian community. The quarter's St. James Monastery is a splendid cathedral, distinguished by its lavishly tiled walls and carpeted floors.
Finally, there's Talbiyeh, a Palestinian neighborhood during the British-mandate regime in the 1920s and 1930s. If you walk through the area, you can observe the various architectural characteristics of the period. In the adjacent Katamon district, you can enjoy the L.A. Mayer Museum for Islamic Art, tel: (972-2) 566 1291.
Iftach Lustig, 29, sommelier, Mamilla Hotel
I would spend a day doing what I love best: sampling Jerusalem's endless culinary treats. I'd start in the Mahane Yehudah market, tasting the cheeses offered at Basher's Fromagerie, tel: (972-2) 625 7969, which I consider the best in all of Israel. Not only do they stock hundreds of different varieties from across the globe, they gladly explain each and every one to you. Then I'd turn my attention to falafel, Israel's national dish. Every Israeli has their own favorite falafel joint, but I'm partial to Falafel Shalom, tel: (972-2) 623 1436, which has been dishing up perfect fried chickpea balls for over 60 years. You pay a set price and get free rein over Shalom's endless toppings, from chopped salad to tahini sauce.
Next, I'd go for an aperitif at the Tzora Winery, tel: (972-2) 990 8261, just 20 minutes outside Jerusalem in a kibbutz near Beit Shemesh. It's nestled along the Judean Hills, where cool winters and short summers have resulted in a range of surprisingly sophisticated Chardonnay-style whites. Finally, I'd return to Mahane Yehuda for dinner, booking a table at its haute eatery, Mahaneyuda, tel: (972-2) 533 3442. This is one of Israel's top tables, with a menu based on the market's freshest ingredients. They're transformed into modern Mediterranean dishes, such as vinegar-spiked spareribs and black risotto with shrimp, by a trio of chefs who run their kitchen like a culinary commune.
James Snyder, 58, director, Israel Museum
For me, a day in Jerusalem means two things: history and culture. I begin at the beginning — at the Temple Mount, which, like St. Peter's Square and Red Square, feels like one of the grandest outdoor architectural spaces in the world. Then I'd head over to East Jerusalem and the Rockefeller Museum, tel: (972-2) 628 2251. It's a beautifully preserved example of British-mandate Modernism, opened in 1938 and designed by British architect Austen Harrison, who embellished its façade with relief work and graphics in Hebrew, Arabic and English.
I'd then move on to Ethiopia Street, in a late 19th century section of Jerusalem, where Jerusalem's Ethiopian Orthodox Christian community is centered around its beautifully preserved and still functioning main church. Another marvel (but relatively modern) is the YMCA, tel: (972-2) 569 2692, a great example of mandate Modernist architecture by the same architects behind New York City's Empire State Building. The structure forms a beautiful mandate-reminiscent square with the entry to the King David Hotel just opposite. On a far larger scale is my workplace, the Israel Museum, tel: (972-2) 670 8811, the best remaining example of Mediterranean Modernism and sited on a hilltop at the entrance to Jerusalem. Finally, just outside Jerusalem, in the Arab town of Abu Ghosh, is the Church of Notre Dame de l'Arche d'Alliance (Our Lady of the Ark of the Covenant). Built in the 1920s on the remnants of a 5th century Byzantine church, this is thought to be the site where the Holy Ark rested en route to Jerusalem.
Read more: http://www.time.com/time/travel/article/0,31542,2002140,00.html#ixzz0tNosTXDt
Going Dutch: Shanghai's 'Holland Town' brings Europe to the city
Life in Shanghai can be a bit a bit monotonous: work, party, brunch and then do it all over again the next weekend. If you need to break things up and don't want to hop on plane, head over the river and check out Pudong's Nederland, aka “Holland Town.”
Under normal driving conditions you can make it from downtown Shanghai to Nederland, in a northern part of Pudong near the sea, in about an hour. (If you want to see more European living near the 'Hai, check out our article on Shanghai's Thames Town)
Directions: Best accessed by car, take Pudong Lu all the way north until you pass the S20 highway. A few hundred meters on your right, you will see the church steeple, turn in and you’re there.
Nederland is a place to relax. The area is disconcertingly quiet. For those who are looking for a place to wander, the town’s streets are perfect and a nice change of pace from Shanghai’s commotion. Although it sometimes looks like an abandoned movie set (find a real Shanghai film studio in Songjiang), an occasional passing bicycle will remind you that it is not.
Take a break from pounding the pavement and hop on a boat to the small island nearby where a world of green space and windmills await.
Although there are spaces for shops in town, this is not one of Shanghai’s best shopping locales. There are a few shops to be seen, but there are more “Opening soon” signs than stores actually open. The signs in store windows give little information about when their promised occupants will arrive.
One shop that is open is a musical instruments store selling everything from guitars to violins and traditional Chinese instruments like the guzheng (古筝) or huqin (胡琴, pictured above). If you are lucky enough, the shopkeeper will be there to play some of the instruments for you. Pull up a chair, it's a treat to listen to him practice.
The windmill in the middle of town has never moved from the position it was built in, but that's okay since it's actually home to a wedding agency. Young couples come to the agency during the weekends to get their photographs taken around the village.
This might look like a European town, but you know it isn't when there are few restaurants or cafes to lounge in. But there are a handful of quiet corners to grab a bite in, so take a picnic with you and plan to be back in town for dinner.
The Nederland complex is only half completed, with the current phase in its final stages of construction. Several units are for sale (RMB 35,000 per square meter), although many of the villas from the first construction phase have been already snatched up, though not necessarily occupied.
Nederland is truly the only Dutch village with a view (on clear skies days) to the Shanghai World Financial Center, Jinmao Tower and Pearl Tower.
Holland town is linked to a nearby town called Gao Qiao. This is a lively local city whose traffic and activity you’d expect of a city near Shanghai -- making Nederland's calm all the more surprising. .
Read more: Going Dutch: Shanghai's 'Holland Town' brings Europe to the city | CNNGo.com http://www.cnngo.com/shanghai/visit/nederland-holland-shanghai-500553#ixzz0tM53nLNR
£1 drop-off charge at airport begins
A new £1 charge for dropping off or picking up passengers at Belfast International Airport is now in force.
The charge will only allow motorists to use the new drop-off zone for 10 minutes before they have to park.
The airport said the charge is due to the investment it made in the zone following guidelines issued after the Glasgow Airport bombing.
The Consumer Council said it can be avoided by using a free 10-minute period in the long-stay car park.
Aodhan O'Donnell from the Consumer Council said it was good that customers still had a choice.
"They can pay the £1 to drop off at the front of the car park, or they can have the choice not to pay the charge and still park relatively nearby."
Alliance councillor Oran Keenan said the airport operates as a commercially viable business and on that basis it is a fair charge.
"This is part of their economy of scale and part of their five-10-year plan which is to pay for the renovations it has undergone, improving the services available to people pre and post flight."
Top 10 guaranteed good times in Spain
Spain could be Europe’s most exotic country. From soulful flamenco and delicious food, to avant-garde architecture and cities, Spain is a beguiling mix of stirring and often curious traditions, live-for-the-moment hedonism and a willingness to embrace the future with a relentlessly adventurous spirit. Here are the top 10 places a good time is almost guaranteed.
La Sagrada Familia
If you only have time for one sightseeing outing, this should be it. The Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia inspires awe with its sheer verticality and, in the true manner of the great medieval cathedrals it emulates, it’s still not finished after more than 100 years. Work is proceeding apace, however, and it might be done by anything between the 2020s and 2040s.
Marvel at Grenada’s Alhambra
Stretched along the top of the hill known as La Sabika, the Alhambra is the stuff of fairy tales. The Palacio Nazaries is the Alhambra’s true gem, the most brilliant Islamic building in Europe, with its perfectly proportioned rooms and courtyards, intricately mouleded stucco walls, beautiful tiling, fine carved wooden ceilings and elaborate stalactite-like muqarnas vaulting, all worked in mesmerizing, symbolic, geometric patterns.
Le Mezquita de Cordoba
It’s hard to exaggerate the beauty of the Cordoba mosque, one of the great creations of Islamic architecture, with its shimmering golden mosaics and rows of red-and-white arches disappearing into infinity.
The Mezquita hints at a refined age when Muslims, Jews and Christians live side by side and enriched their city with an interaction of diverse and vibrant cultures. It’s likely, however, that a less glamorous reality prevailed, with medieval Cordoba brimming with racial and class-based tension.
Celebrate Easter in Seville
Return to Spain’s medieval Christian roots and join Seville’s masses for the dramatic Easter celebration of Semana Santa. Religious fraternities parade elaborate pasos (sculptural representations) of Christ around the city to the acclamation of the populace.
Sleep in luxurious Paradores
Spain’s state-owned paradores are far more than a place to sleep. From former palaces to one-time castles and convents, paradores offer nights of grandeur and historical charm. Most are also magnificently sited, none more so than in Ronda and Granada. Ronda is perched on an inland plateau riven by the 100m fissure of El Tajo gorge and surrounded by the beautiful Serrania de Ronda, Ronda is the most dramatically sited of all the pueblos, blancos. Just an hour north of the Costa del Sol, it is nevertheless a world away from the coastal scene.
Laze on Menorca beaches
Menorca is a Unesco Biosphere Reserve with beaches that defy description. Some assert that reaching them by sea is the height of pleasure, but happening upon them from the interior bring equal joy. Among the best are Cala Macarelleta and Cala en Turqueta.
Toledo of Three Faiths
Toledo is a gorgeous place, like a city-sized version of a medieval Spanish hill-town with just the right combination of grand moments and twisting narrow lanes in which to get lost. It’s also like walking through a history book written in stone with churches, mosques and synagogues.
Like Spain’s equivalent of a downsized Rome, Toledo’s labyrinth of lanes, plazas and inner patios is also reminiscent of the medinas (towns) of Damascus, Cairo or Morocco’s Fez, although the historic diversity of Romans, Jews and Muslims equals an intriguing combination of synagogues and churches, as well as mosques. Ass to this a lofty setting, high above Rio Tajo, and it’s no surprise that Toledo is one of Spain’s most visited cities.
Segovia
Segovia is a town of all gold, honey stone under sun. Unesco World Heritage-listed, it always has had a whiff of legend about it – was it truly founded by Hercules? Nowhere else in Spain has such an impressive aqueduct, a monument to Roman grandeur, and art that has imitated life – Walt Disney is said to have modeled Sleeping Beauty’s castle in California’s Disneyland on the Alcazar. Whatever it is, the effect is stunning: a city of warm terracotta and sandstone hues set amid the rolling hills of Castilla and against the backdrop of the Guadarrama.
Sierra Nevada
The Sierra Nevada forms an almost year-round snowy southeastern backdrop to Granada. The upper reaches of the range form the national park, with a rare high-altitude environment that is home to about 2100 of Spain’s 7000 plant species. The mountains and the Alpujarras valleys comprise one of the most spectacular areas in Spain, and the area offers wonderful opportunities for walking, horse riding, climbing, mountain biking, and in winter, good skiing and snowboarding.
Tour La Rioja wine country
Get out the corpas (glasses) for La Rioja and for some of the best red wines produced in the country. Wine goes well with the region’s ochre earth and vast blue skies, which seem far more Mediterranean than the Basque greens further north. The bulk of the vineyards line Rio Ebro around the town of Haro, but extend also into neighbouring Navarra and the Basque province of Alava.
La Rioja wine rollds on and off the tongue with ease, by name as well as taste. All wine fanciers know the famous wines of La Rioja, where the vine has been cultivated since Roman times. The region is classic vine country and vineyards cover the hinterland of Rio Ebro.
The sculpture park you can see from space
Australian artist Andrew Rogers has a vision. He wants to create massive "drawings on the Earth" that are visible from space.
So far, he has succeeded far beyond expectations, building dozens of structures in 12 countries on five different continents.
But sometimes his ambitious projects don't go according to plan.
"One truck ... stuck!" a Turkish truck driver informs Rogers in broken English. He points to an 18-wheel truck. Its driver struggles to drag a trailer loaded with an enormous 50-foot-tall column of solid basalt rock, up a crude dirt road.
A few hours later, when crane operators try to use steel cables to lift the 60-ton obelisk off the trailer into an upright position, the normally unflappable Rogers allows himself a moment of worry.
"Those cables don't look so thick, do they," he murmurs to himself.
Eventually, the stone pillar will support a four-story-high archway that is part of a sprawling stone sculpture park Rogers has constructed in the hills of the central Turkish region of Cappadocia.
Some of the installations could be described as "contemporary ruins" -- clusters of columns decorated with blindingly reflective 23-carat gold, reminiscent of the ancient Greek and Roman temples that dot the Turkish countryside.
We're trying to make people think about what's gone before and what's going to be important in the future.
--Andrew Rogers, artist
Video: Sculptures visible from space RELATED TOPICS
Sculpture
Turkey
Middle East
"We're trying to make people think about what's gone before and what's going to be important in the future," Rogers says.
Other structures are best seen from the sky. Fortunately, Cappadocia is a popular tourist destination with a growing hot-air balloon industry.
Up close, many of Rogers' structures look like little more than a series of strangely-curved rock walls, some up to eight feet tall.
But from a floating balloon and wicker basket, tethered to a jeep bumping down a dirt road far below, the kilometers of winding rock walls reveal themselves as huge, ornate drawings on the side of hilltops, in the shape of giant horses, mythological beasts and ancient tribal symbols.
"We always try to work with the local people and ask them what's important for their history and their heritage and what they want to show the next generations," Rogers explains pointing to a mammoth double-bodied lion he says originally decorated a centuries-old tomb built by ancient Selcuk Turks.
Some locals admit they were baffled when Rogers first launched his project in Cappadocia.
"We didn't understand what they want," says Mustafa Sevin, one of the army of more then 1,000 local workers that has been employed to construct the sculpture park.
"After time, we can see the different shapes. It looks nice. When we are finished, we can be very happy."
Sevin talks as he and dozens of other stone masons chisel into the limestone of a hilltop with sharp picks. The clanging blades strike up an unusual syncopated rhythm, accompanied by flying stone fragments and explosions of fine limestone dust.
"This is the creation of an amphitheater," Rogers explains. "People will be able to come up here and sit and look up the valley ... and think what it all means and what's important in life."
Rogers says one of his goals is to create "sacred spaces for contemplation." He has built similar works of land art in barren, hard-to-reach destinations like the Atacama desert of Chile, the mountains of Nepal, and the arctic highlands of Iceland.
Cappadocia stands out because of its combination of otherworldly landscape and ancient civilization. Visitors flock to see its bizarre fairy-chimney formations, carved out of volcanic rock valleys by thousands of years of wind and water.
The rippling rock walls are also honeycombed with thousand-year-old cave dwellings. In the fourth century A.D., Christians sought sanctuary in these valleys, carving pillared chapels out of the soft rock and digging deep tunnels to hide and protect themselves from attacking armies.
Residents say the sculpture park will add a new artistic dimension to Cappadocia's rich natural and cultural treasures.
"These giant sculptures are going to be a bridge from the past to the present," said Ozgur Ozarslan, an official from Turkey's Culture and Tourism Ministry.
He spoke at an opening ceremony for the sculpture park, held within a ring of stone columns on a hilltop. Later, an orchestra played works by Vivaldi and Sarasate, the first of what Rogers hopes will be many concerts to be performed in the location.
Locals say the name Cappadocia stems from an ancient word that means "land of beautiful horses."
A hillside leading into the sculpture park, is now decorated with a giant stone horse. Rogers titled this work of land art, "The Gift." It is a gift built to withstand the test of time.
So far, he has succeeded far beyond expectations, building dozens of structures in 12 countries on five different continents.
But sometimes his ambitious projects don't go according to plan.
"One truck ... stuck!" a Turkish truck driver informs Rogers in broken English. He points to an 18-wheel truck. Its driver struggles to drag a trailer loaded with an enormous 50-foot-tall column of solid basalt rock, up a crude dirt road.
A few hours later, when crane operators try to use steel cables to lift the 60-ton obelisk off the trailer into an upright position, the normally unflappable Rogers allows himself a moment of worry.
"Those cables don't look so thick, do they," he murmurs to himself.
Eventually, the stone pillar will support a four-story-high archway that is part of a sprawling stone sculpture park Rogers has constructed in the hills of the central Turkish region of Cappadocia.
Some of the installations could be described as "contemporary ruins" -- clusters of columns decorated with blindingly reflective 23-carat gold, reminiscent of the ancient Greek and Roman temples that dot the Turkish countryside.
We're trying to make people think about what's gone before and what's going to be important in the future.
--Andrew Rogers, artist
Video: Sculptures visible from space RELATED TOPICS
Sculpture
Turkey
Middle East
"We're trying to make people think about what's gone before and what's going to be important in the future," Rogers says.
Other structures are best seen from the sky. Fortunately, Cappadocia is a popular tourist destination with a growing hot-air balloon industry.
Up close, many of Rogers' structures look like little more than a series of strangely-curved rock walls, some up to eight feet tall.
But from a floating balloon and wicker basket, tethered to a jeep bumping down a dirt road far below, the kilometers of winding rock walls reveal themselves as huge, ornate drawings on the side of hilltops, in the shape of giant horses, mythological beasts and ancient tribal symbols.
"We always try to work with the local people and ask them what's important for their history and their heritage and what they want to show the next generations," Rogers explains pointing to a mammoth double-bodied lion he says originally decorated a centuries-old tomb built by ancient Selcuk Turks.
Some locals admit they were baffled when Rogers first launched his project in Cappadocia.
"We didn't understand what they want," says Mustafa Sevin, one of the army of more then 1,000 local workers that has been employed to construct the sculpture park.
"After time, we can see the different shapes. It looks nice. When we are finished, we can be very happy."
Sevin talks as he and dozens of other stone masons chisel into the limestone of a hilltop with sharp picks. The clanging blades strike up an unusual syncopated rhythm, accompanied by flying stone fragments and explosions of fine limestone dust.
"This is the creation of an amphitheater," Rogers explains. "People will be able to come up here and sit and look up the valley ... and think what it all means and what's important in life."
Rogers says one of his goals is to create "sacred spaces for contemplation." He has built similar works of land art in barren, hard-to-reach destinations like the Atacama desert of Chile, the mountains of Nepal, and the arctic highlands of Iceland.
Cappadocia stands out because of its combination of otherworldly landscape and ancient civilization. Visitors flock to see its bizarre fairy-chimney formations, carved out of volcanic rock valleys by thousands of years of wind and water.
The rippling rock walls are also honeycombed with thousand-year-old cave dwellings. In the fourth century A.D., Christians sought sanctuary in these valleys, carving pillared chapels out of the soft rock and digging deep tunnels to hide and protect themselves from attacking armies.
Residents say the sculpture park will add a new artistic dimension to Cappadocia's rich natural and cultural treasures.
"These giant sculptures are going to be a bridge from the past to the present," said Ozgur Ozarslan, an official from Turkey's Culture and Tourism Ministry.
He spoke at an opening ceremony for the sculpture park, held within a ring of stone columns on a hilltop. Later, an orchestra played works by Vivaldi and Sarasate, the first of what Rogers hopes will be many concerts to be performed in the location.
Locals say the name Cappadocia stems from an ancient word that means "land of beautiful horses."
A hillside leading into the sculpture park, is now decorated with a giant stone horse. Rogers titled this work of land art, "The Gift." It is a gift built to withstand the test of time.
Communist-era naval base reborn as superyacht marina
former Communist-era naval base in east Europe could soon become the most important new European superyacht hub in decades.
Porto Montenegro marina is being developed in the Bay of Kotor in southern Montenegro, the tiny former-Yugoslav nation, a region with the lowest GDP in Europe.
It is the brainchild of multi-millionaire gold miner Peter Munk who hopes his plans will turn this area into a glamorous and economically thriving hotspot to rival the likes of Monaco, Cannes and Portofino.
To this end, the bay, with its picturesque mountains, is undergoing a transformation that will leave it decorated with luxury penthouses, upmarket shopping boulevards and the capacity to hold 600 yachts in its harbor.
But despite the grandness of the development, it was not so long ago that 82-year-old Munk, thought the scheme an impossible dream.
"I never thought I'd have the opportunity to put all this into practice," said Monk, who is CEO of Barrik Gold, the world's largest gold mining company.
"Where would I get the chance to create the perfect port in Europe, somewhere that's large and protected, where the water is deep and where the government is co-operating? It would be a chance in a million," he said.
I never thought I'd have the opportunity to put all this into practice. Where would I get the chance to create the perfect port in Europe?
--Peter Munk, CEO Barrik Gold
RELATED TOPICS
* Montenegro
* Property Values
* Marine Animals
* Sailing
So how did he get from notions of a "fantasy port" to the very real Porto Montenegro development?
It was some chance comments that piqued his interest back in 2000, in his former role as chairman and CEO of the largest Canadian/US real-estate firm Trizec Properties, which had interests throughout Central Europe.
Advisors recommended having a look at Montenegro, in those days part of the rump of former Yugoslavia. "The Canadian ambassador in Belgrade also recommended it to me. He said I should have a look next time I'm in Europe," he says.
In 2003, he was flown in a government helicopter over the Bay of Kotor.
This huge, mountain-fringed harbor had been hidden from view for decades, during its time housing the Tivat naval base, home of the Yugoslav navy. Foreign charts were out of date and there had been a 30-mile no-fly zone over the bay. The location was for many years, quite literally, off the radar.
When Monk saw the bay he was gobsmacked. "I absolutely flipped. I dropped my knickers. I'd never seen anywhere as beautiful in my life," he said.
This was the virgin territory he had been waiting for and he met with Montenegrin Prime Minister, Milo Dukanovic, who told him that they were keen to privatize some military assets, including the base at Tivat.
Next came the money: "That was easy. I just got some friends involved. They are all yachtsmen."
Today, Porto Montenegro is making strides, with phase one complete and over 85 boats of all sizes in place.
"Our investment is a transformational investment, not just of the base, but of the country," says Munk.
The first fruits of this can be seen with a range of developments in the region -- hotels -- built to planning restrictions that mean this will hopefully not become yet another concrete jungle -- a golf course, and international flights to Tivat airport.
"People have seen that if we can attract hundreds of yachts it will open up the whole country. They see the wealth that comes from the big yachts, which provide the employment, the foreign currency, the purchasing power."
He adds: "We're not taking a dollar out. We're putting in an infrastructure, we're educating, we're attracting other investors. We're creating roads, buildings, pure water, an image.
"We're investing hundreds of millions of dollars. In the meantime 60 to 70 Montenegrins can work for us directly at an income level unknown under communism."